Showing posts with label salad dressing. Show all posts
Showing posts with label salad dressing. Show all posts

Tuesday, June 29, 2010

The Beginner's Guide To Homemade Salad Dressing

Antico Frantoio Muraglia 'Intenso' Extra Virgin Olive Oil at Dean & Deluca

Consider this an intervention. Those of you still buying bottles of Paul Newman's or Annie's or God forbid, Wish Bone salad dressings at the grocery store - it's over. I'm sorry but it's over. Additives? Corn Syrup? Xanthan Gum? That's not who you are.

You are someone with exquisite taste who appreciates and understands quality. And, you're about to become someone who confidently knows how to dress their own salad. Do not underestimate how important this is. I want you to experience real pleasure and satisfaction when you sit down to eat. The days of settling for mediocrity are over. Now, let's get down to business.

Buy the best ingredients you can afford.
Every time you use quality ingredients, your food is going to taste better. Period. You can buy the inexpensive extra virgin olive oils at Whole Foods and Trader Joe's and use them to cook with, that's fine. But if you are buying the freshest, best tasting produce for your salads at your local farmers' market, I want to suggest that you spend more money for high quality oils and vinegars. Ones that you use only for drizzling over foods and making into vinaigrettes, not heating.

Ratios of oil to vinegar
The traditional ratio for vinaigrette is three parts oil to one part vinegar. This ratio doesn't really work for me. I enjoy a brighter flavor. The ratio for my palate is almost equal parts oil to vinegar. To find the right acidity level for you, simply taste the dressing as you're adding the oil and stop or add more to your liking. Know that if it's too acidic, you can simply add more oil to balance it out. You are the master of your dressing domain.

The quick drizzle method

Some days, I don't feel like making a full-on vinaigrette; I want super quick results. So here's what I do: Take the bottle of olive oil, cover the spout part ways with your finger and slowly drizzle lightly over your salad. Do the same with the vinegar, sprinkle some good sea salt, fresh ground pepper, gently toss with your hands and you're done. It's might seem like a crap shoot but it works. If you're unsure, start by adding less versus more because you can always add but you can't take away.

The authentic vinaigrette method
Grab a clean, empty jar with a lid. Add your minced garlic or shallots in the jar with your acid (i.e.vinegar, lemon juice, orange juice, verjus, yuzu, etc.) and your salt. The acid will help mellow the sharpness of the garlic and shallot, deepen the flavors and also help "melt" the salt. Salt doesn't melt well in oil. Let it sit for a few minutes - say 5 to 10. Then add your oil, screw the lid on tight and shake like mad. You can also make the dressing in a bowl and whisk the oil in slowly. You want to make sure it's emulsified. Do not make dressing in a metallic bowl unless it is stainless steel. Your acid will be altered in flavor and not in a good way.

RECIPES
Here are two simple recipes to try from the great new cookbook, Michael Symon's Live to Cook: Recipes and Techniques to Rock Your Kitchen

Sherry Vinaigrette
1 tablespoon minced shallot
1 tablespoon minced garlic
1/2 cup sherry vinegar
1 teaspoon Dijon mustard
1/4 teaspoon kosher salt
1 cup extra virgin olive oil

Combine the shallot, garlic, vinegar, mustard and salt in a medium mixing bowl. Whisk in a few drops of the oil and then begin adding the oil in a thin stream, whisking continuously until all the oil is incorporated.



Lemon Vinaigrette
1 tablespoon minced shallot
1 teaspoon minced garlic
1/2 cup fresh lemon juice
1/4 teaspoon kosher salt
3/4 cup extra virgin olive oil
1 tablespoon chopped fresh dill (optional)

Combine the shallot, garlic, lemon juice and salt in a medium mixing bowl. Whisk in a few drops of the oil and then begin adding the oil in a thin stream, whisking continuously until all the oil is incorporated. If using dill, add right before serving.

Storing your dressing

According to Michael Symon, if your homemade dressing contains aromatics - garlic, shallots, herbs, it will only last about a day. If not, it will last up to one week in the fridge.


ADVICE FROM THE PROS
I asked some talented food professionals to offer up their tips on salad making as well as some of their favorite oils and vinegars.



Christine Cikowski, Chef/Founder of Sunday Dinner and Eat Green Foods

Favorites
Olio Verde Extra Virgin Olive Oil
Estate bottled in Sicily, unfiltered and made from Nocellara Olives.

Villa Manodori Balsamic
Made in small quantities, matured for 10 to 20 years. Aged in barrels of juniper, chestnut and oak.

Salad making tips
Mix your salad in a large bowl with your hands for even coat of the dressing. Don't over dress your salad. Start with a little and add slowly.


Iliana Regan, Artisan and Chef of One Sister Pierogi and the underground dining sensation - Mermaid Dinners

Favorites
BLiS sherry vinegar - BLiS ages extra old, fine sherry vinegar in 18 year old, maple cured, single bourbon casks. It's AMAZING.

Salad making tips

As for sourcing, I use my own garden. Most people probably don't know that you need fairly little soil - just a two inch even layer of moist soil - and you can just throw lettuce seeds on top, no rows or planting - to have an awesome patch of lettuce. And I use lots of my own sprouts and microgreens, like sunflower and radish in my salads at home. HERBS, fine herbs, tarragon, chervil, parsley and chive, make an awesome addition of flavor on top of any salad. And, I keep it simple: lettuces, sprouts, bright herbs, a touch oil, touch vin, a little lemon or citrus zest - Grapefruit is awesome if it's hot and you're outside drinking sauvignon blanc - and finally salt and pepper. I like to play with peppers. I use a five pepper blend. One of my many favorite kitchen tools is the juicer. How that works for salads? Juice the greens, season with salt, and pour the juice onto a lined sheet tray and freeze. After it's frozen, drag a fork along in rows to make granita, mist with a little sherry vinegar and serve as a palate cleanser for a summer barbeque!

Alisa Barry, Creator/Owner at Bella Cucina

Favorites
Bella Cucina's Taste of Tuscany. It's an estate grown and bottled oil, made exclusively for Bella Cucina that evokes my favorite flavors of the Tuscan hill towns. In Tuscany, the olives are picked in November while they are still green. This gives the oil its rich color and fruity, peppery and green flavor. Another fave is Bariani California Olive Oil. Estate grown and bottled in northern California.

Verjus from Terra Sonoma in Northern California. This California winery lets nothing go to waste. Fine wine is left to age into a delicate and slightly sweet vinegar in the traditional French style. I love it as a seasoning for cooked bitter greens like lacinato kale and escarole.




Kim Shambrook of
Bespoke Cuisine

Favorites
Some of my favorite olive oils are by Yellingbo – produced in Australia and quite tasty – herbaceous, yet not too heavy. I’m also a big fan of the Greek extra-virgin olive oils. I find them to have a great depth of flavor, the color is beautiful, and all you need is a little lemon juice and salt & pepper to make a simple vinaigrette.

Salad making tip
I use a Microplane grater to add lemon zest to my vinaigrettes.










Chef Paul Virant of
Vie

Favorites
I love Spanish olive oils made from Picual or Arbequina olives. As far as vinegars, we use Champagne or Cava vinegar the most in conjunction with leftover preserving liquids that usually have infused flavor. (read idea, below) Our source for Spanish olive oils and Cava vinegar is La Tienda.com.

Salad making tip
Say you've made or bought some pickled dilly beans and the liquid is garlicky and spicy. Bring up the the acidity level by adding some fresh lemon juice and add some oil and your done. This could be a nice marinade or dressing.


Terra Brockman, Farmer, Speaker and Author of
The Seasons on Henry's Farm

Favorites
Napa Valley Naturals extra virgin organic olive oil.

Salad making tips
Buy salad greens from a local farmer you know, and to ask them which variety of lettuce is best at the time you are buying, since some varieties are much better in the cool, wet spring, but get bitter in the summer. Add Herbs! To liven up your salad, add some fresh herbs -- parsley, dill, tarragon, thyme or sorrel . . . whatever strikes your fancy. Add Flowers! You can find these at some farmers markets, or grow your own: johnny jump-ups, calendula, chive flowers, sage flowers, nasturtiums.


Tracy Kellner, Wine Babe & Owner of Provenance Food & Wine

Favorites
Right now anything by A l'Olivier - I've tried their passion fruit, tomato, espelette, chili & fig...mild acidity and lots of the fruit's pulp is left in for a thicker, more flavorful texture. I've used them with any oil because the flavor is so good.

Salad making tips
I save small jars with lids and use them to make/shake/store my homemade dressings in smaller amounts so there is less waste. However, in summertime when there are so many great tasting veggies at their peak, I tend to use either one really high-quality oil OR vinegar, depending what flavor I want to complement or enhance in the dish or salad. That with a sprinkling of good salt and freshly-ground pepper, is all I need!


Flora Lazar, Artisan at Flora Confections

Favorites
I love the Cassis Balsamic vinegar from Old Town Oil.







Salad making tip
I love, like Balthazar in NYC, to put a tiny bit of truffle oil in my salad dressing. I also love cut up pate de fruit in my salad, especially the raspberry and blueberry varieties. (Flora makes these beauties by hand using local, seasonal fruit. They're available online and Saturdays at Green City Market.)

Thursday, September 3, 2009

An Improvisational Salad Journey

Salad culture in this country has changed so much since I was a young. Back then iceberg wedges and Julienne Salads reigned the day. I rarely see them anymore except at a steakhouse, diner or deli which I enjoy but rarely frequent.

Now, it seems to me almost every casual American restaurant dishes out slightly altered versions of the same two or three salads - and they've just been done to death. You know the ones I'm talking about. And more often than not they're mediocre and mediocre isn't satisfying.

Perhaps we're in a salad rut and maybe it's time to re-think what salad could be. This is potentially promising for people who think they don't like salad.

And when I speak of an improvisational journey I'm not talking about glow sticks and Ecstasy and a long, slow death by musical masturbation - no - this is a journey that begins by letting go of our tired, old salad dogma such as, " a salad has got to have lettuce" or "when I see a sneeze guard, that's the time for a salad."

This journey is about you in your kitchen without the safety net of a formal recipe, throwing together ingredients you might not ordinarily consider using or combining and seasoning them to your taste. The sky's the limit.

Perhaps it might also be a creative and refreshing exercise to take a break from bottled salad dressings and whip up your own with great oils, vinegars, mustards and citrus. It's easy, fast and makes a HUGE difference in taste.

In my experience, the best tasting and most beautiful salads are made from the best ingredients. It's that simple. So before you go to the grocery store to buy the same old goober-y bag of mesclun lettuce and three month old carrots, let me stop you right here. I'm going to keep saying this over and over so just amuse me: Right now, farmers' markets and road-side farm stands all over this fine country of ours are brimming with the most amazing, colorful, succulent produce you will ever sink your teeth into. And especially if you live in the Midwest where the growing season is only six months long - now is the time, people. Now is the time.

Below I've provided a list of salads that move me; perhaps it might inspire you to create your own. Make these to taste, adjusting quantities and seasonings as you go. It goes without saying you use great vinegars and extra virgin olive oil. To slice vegetables quickly and super thin, look into buying one of these.

Arugula, Radicchio, Feta & Dates tossed in lemon juice, olive oil

Arugula, Avocado, Grapefruit, Red Onion, champagne vinegar, olive oil

Chopped Celery, Blue Cheese & Tabasco, olive oil, a touch of lemon juice*

Watercress, Pear & Fennel, lime juice, olive oil, toasted hazelnuts**

Celery, Dates, Toasted Walnuts, shaved Pecorino, sherry vinegar, olive oil

Shredded Carrots, Harissa, touch of cayenne, chopped cilantro, raisins, olive oil, lemon juice*

Cantaloupe, Prosciutto, Buffalo Mozzarella, Parsley, Arugula, olive oil, lemon juice**

Tomatoes, Cucumber, Parsley, Kalamatas, Radish, Red Onion, Lemon Tahini dressing (see below)

Celery, Carrots, Cucumber, Radishes, Parsley, Basil, Red Onion, Radicchio, Boiled Egg, Homemade Croutons, garlicky red wine vinaigrette

Radish, Apple, Fennel, dressing of apple cider vinegar, whole grain mustard, touch of honey, olive or walnut oil

New Potatoes, Parsley, Capers, Chopped Garlic, tossed warm with red wine vinegar, olive oil*

Cucumber, Daikon Radish, Red Radish, Scallion, Celery, Avocado, Toasted Sesame Seeds, dressing of sesame oil, soy sauce, rice vinegar and a touch of honey, topped with sprouts and a side of brown rice

Arugula, Bacon or Prosciutto, Peaches, Ricotta, Mint, dressing of fresh peach juice, sherry vinegar, olive oil, pinch cayenne

Pristine Greens of any kind be they arugula, watercress or the tender leaves of a young Bibb - simply tossed with a classic vinaigrette and maybe some shaved Parmesan is perfection.


Dressing a Salad

To make a simple dressing, the typical ratio is 3 tablespoons oil to 1 tablespoon vinegar or citrus such as lemon juice and then season with salt and pepper. Feel free to riff on this to your taste. You can also try adding a half teaspoon finely chopped garlic or shallot and a small amount of dijon and fresh herbs as well.

The pros mix the dressing right in the bowl, whisk it until it thickens, then toss the ingredients gently on top with their hands. If you want, make double or triple batches in a non-reactive jar or container and save in the fridge - simply whisk it well before you use it.

Here's the Lemon Tahini Dressing recipe as promised. This is from the great food blog 101 Cookbooks. Simply blend in a food processor.

1 garlic clove, smashed and chopped
1/4 cup tahini - a sesame seed paste found at Whole Foods, and middle east grocers
Zest of one lemon
1/4 cup fresh lemon juice
2 tablespoons olive oil
2 tablespoons hot water
1/2 teaspoon fine grain sea salt

* recipe adapted from the awesome Melissa Clark
** recipe adapted fromThe Kitchen Diaries: A Year in the Kitchen with Nigel Slater